Afternoon at Papa Nurdin´s Place

In search of sea nomads/sea gypsys (so-called Baju or Bajo), we set sailed for a village about 15minutes from Kadidiri island (Togian archipelago-Sulawesi). Our mission was to both explore this settlement and heal Laura´s aching back.

Local physiotherapist Papa Nurdin is a well known and respected person among the entire community. During the Ramadan he´s not allowed to work (i.e. massage women) which means you have to wait almost till the sunset. Talking about the massage, Papa proved to be a pro and despite the language barrier he managed to relieve the pain. He hardly ever mentions the price or even talks about the money. It´s totally up to his client how much to pay him. The act of paying itself is supposed to happen as a thankful handshake basically hiding a note into his palm.


Morning At Lake Batur

The caldera of Bali´s largest lake is populated and includes the two main villages of Kedisan and Toya Bungkah. As the largest lake in Bali, Danau Batur is sacred to the Balinese. The locals largely rely on agriculture (tomatoes, garlic) and fishing for income. There is some significant profit coming from hot springs and related tourism as well.

Every morning Urat and his son Nenga go fishing. During the night the temperature drops to 10°C. Around 5:30 A.M. they are already afloat setting nets. Meanwhile other villagers, who abandoned traditional way of fishing by keeping fish in floating hatcheries, are still sleeping at home.

Keeping fish in such hatcheries improved the standard of living of the locals but brought some potential risks to the original wildlife in the lake. Diseases and infections tend to spread faster in warmer waters. Fish feeding brings unnecessary nitrates causing enormous growth of cyanobacteria. Currently there are two large hatcheries afloat.

Urat´s grandchildren practice fishing skills in a concrete water tank to supply a local bistro.


Meet Nona

Nona comes from Sumatra and works as a public bus conductor in Jakarta. Her loud voice, incredible energy, extremely lively and warm hearted attitude to the passengers works as a charm. "I don't have much money but I am funny!" Sometimes she speaks english just for practice even to the locals. I can still hear her singing: "Sloooow down, baby..." She's a true life and soul of the bus which is decorated with a banner "Ora et labora!"